Showing posts with label 2002. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2002. Show all posts

Am I a Woman or What?

September 2002
Newtopia Magazine

"Last summer, someone at work called me 'cutie' - and only now, after taking this class, do I realize how offensive that was," announced a petite blonde sitting next to me in a classroom full of women. Some nodded with approval, others lowered their eyes sympathetically, but none smiled.

This is, indeed, an excellent reason to attend college, I thought. Where else can you find a women's support group but in a class that requires a diligent, semester-long recital of the "women are victims, men are monsters" mantra, a class containing in its title the sacred trinity of "gender, class and race"? The four males taking the class were frozen down into their chairs most of the time, and when one found courage, during a discussion of the evils of film industry, to remark on the subtlety of Quentin Tarantino's work, he drew only blank stares from the audience and a dry "Who?" from the professor.

In this class, which I took the first semester of my grad school, I felt and acted as a traitor to my gender. I reached the highest point of my infidelity when I stumbled upon an idea for the midterm research paper: it had nothing to do with women, class or race; I chose to write about anti-Muslim bias in major U.S. newspapers' coverage of the Oklahoma City bombing.

In the fall of 1996, unlike now, this theme was not self-evident, and I was lucky to have eavesdropped on a conversation between two of my next-door neighbors. One, a Muslim boy I would spend the next two years desperately trying to befriend, spoke about some truly outrageous things that had happened to American Muslims in the first few days after the blast. The other - a man who would stalk me for the next year or so - knew about the injustices and kept the conversation going long enough for me to see that this was my chance to escape the dogmatic limitations of the gender discourse imposed on me that semester.

The woman in me failed to feel degraded when I followed this lead from the two silly men bent on trying my patience - each in his own spectacular way - as no one else had ever had. The woman in me was not disturbed by the fact that I was writing about people whose religion seemed to deprive certain women's rights activists of their sleep. The woman in me effortlessly erased the recent memories of Middle Eastern engineering and medical students in the streets of Kyiv, Ukraine, yelling "Habibi! Hey, ha-beee-beee!" at me, as I walked by with all the dignity I could assemble (their shouts, in this context, could be roughly translated from Arabic as "Hey, baby!").

Eventually, the woman in me triumphed as the professor gave me an 'A' for the paper and asked me to present it in class. But my dissident spirit suppressed the woman in me and talked me out of this submissive act, returning me to the traitor's orbit.

A year and a half later, I was back home in Ukraine, crushed by the revelation that regardless of my views on feminism, Islam, ethnic and other minorities, freedom of the press and just about anything else, I was doomed to a career of an English tutor. By December 1998, I had four students and an income of approximately $200 a month. I wasn't starving; moreover, I was beginning to notice those tiny little things that I couldn't exactly control but was sort of able to keep from slipping away. I made my room look like my room again by convincing my parents that they didn't need so much extra storage space; I fell in love with reading local newspapers and secretly dreamed of doing a dissertation that might later inspire me to launch a Russian/Ukrainian branch of The Onion; I got used to a typewriter and resumed writing.

Then one day I realized that my U.S. driver's license was about to expire. Its actual value at the time was nil, for there was no way I could afford a car or dare navigate it through the jumble of European-standard road signs and swarms of corrupt traffic cops. Yet, the symbolic significance of this plastic card was immense: it certified my ascension to the class of drivers, which no one in my immediate family had ever belonged to, and to a less numerous subclass of female drivers, known in the former Soviet Union mainly as "the killers on the road" (a stereotype I had been consciously, and successfully, trying to defy while I was in the United States). Letting the license expire equaled to having my master's degree in journalism annulled, an incident that wouldn't have had any impact on my everyday life but that would still have obliterated a huge part of my dear little self. This peril had to be averted at any cost, and so, without delay, I set out to obtain a Ukrainian driver's license.

The first step (or, to be precise, a series of steps) was to have a myriad of doctors confirm that I was a healthy individual. Briefly, the woman in me appeared to be quite a burden because, in addition to a checkup of my eyes, ears, nose and throat, as well as an inspection of a matchbox of my feces and a jar of my urine (a routine required of both males and females aspiring to drive a vehicle), I had to pay a visit to a gynecologist. Or so I thought at first. After some reconnaissance, I encountered a young doctor willing to sacrifice his integrity and provide me with all but two of the needed certificates for just $10. The un-bribable personnel of this hospital included a psychiatrist and a doctor known in our part of the world as "a narcologist."

For a number of reasons, I was not all too eager to meet a Ukrainian psychiatrist. I sat on a chair by his office, tense, waiting and listening to a Russian pop song that was coming from behind the closed door. Soon, a man appeared down the hallway; he smoked a cigarette as he walked, and when he approached me, I was struck by how familiar he looked: dressed in a white gown, he looked like a more mellow Karl Marx. He nodded, inviting me in, discarded his cigarette into a sink in the corner of the room, asked my name, and on a pre-stamped form wrote down his judgment. In his opinion, I was mentally fit to drive a car.

Filled with enthusiasm, I expected similar brevity from the narcologist - a quick look at my veins, perhaps, and a friendly suggestion or two about how dangerous it was to do drugs and to drink and drive. But first, a nurse took my blood sample. Then she accompanied me to a small auditorium where half a dozen more people, mostly men, were seated, listening to a bespectacled woman, the narcologist, whose white gown didn't manage to conceal her intimidating, high-school teacher appearance. I realized I was late for something when she paused for just a second to give me a harsh glance.

For the next two hours, she talked about everything I never wanted to know about car accidents and the subsequent first aid. I may still remember how to tell whether someone is experiencing clinical death or is actually dead; I know that it's worth trying to resuscitate a person for as long as 50 minutes; I have been warned that when someone's internal organs are lying next to him on the ground, I should never attempt to put them back inside the person, for this will most likely cause peritonitis. "If a person is unconscious," the narcologist said by the end of her lecture, "you need to take his tongue out of his mouth and pin it down to his shirt. Please note: to his shirt, not to his cheek - even though it's not your cheek so you don't care." All of a sudden, I found myself asking a truly journalistic question: "Excuse me, and how long is the human tongue?" She chuckled and gave me the most excruciating quote in my life: "Miss, it's the shirt that you're gonna pull towards the tongue, not vice versa!"

She spent the last fifteen minutes speaking about zero tolerance, the four hours that it takes 50 grams of vodka to vanish from our blood, and the spooky "physical effects of alcohol abuse" (see illustration below). When she was done, a line quickly formed by her table. Two men - truck drivers who had to go through this ordeal every two years - were the first to get the narcologist's signature. "Why such a hurry?" she inquired, as they were elbowing their way to the door. One of the men turned around, smiled a conspiratory smile and replied: "Time for a drink!"


"Physical Effects of Alcohol Abuse" (from a booklet distributed by a narcologist to practicing and wannabe Ukrainian drivers)

When my turn came, the narcologist crossed off a square on the form that said that I normally had one drink a week - wine or champagne. I had a question mark in my eyes, and she explained: "This is what all the girls who come to us say--they don't like vodka or cognac." I pointed out that beer in this country was extremely good, but she had already signed the paper, and I was free to go, for once feeling as a very good, average Ukrainian woman - not really myself, but that was the last thing I cared about at the end of that long day.

The next step was actually getting the driver's license, and it was a much more pleasant experience, if somewhat shameful again. My still-valid U.S. license helped me avoid the obligatory, state-administered driving classes. A few useful connections, and chocolate and cognac for bribes, transported me over much of the red tape that rules Ukrainian traffic police. I landed right onto a relatively small but comfortable red carpet that led me to my goal, by way of an anonymous police boss - a useful connection of my own useful connection - who didn't mind getting an extra New Year's gift in exchange for a brief phone call to his subordinates who were to issue me a license, without subjecting me to a driving test (which I would have flunked) and ignoring the results of my computer-based driving rules and situations exam (which I did flunk).

In the next four years, I haven't had a chance to drive a car in Ukraine or Russia, and I still do not intend to. The doctors and cops who were so lenient to me and so trustful need not worry about one more potential murderess they've let loose. But even if I do decide that I'm ready to drive, they should not despair, because every now and then I wonder: am I a woman or what? In this part of the world, so many things force me to have doubts about my true gender. And if I'm not really a woman, then what's so dangerous about me sitting in the driver's seat?

I feel uncertain about my womanhood when I drink beer instead of wine or champagne, and when I drink beer more often than once a week, as the narcologist had prescribed me. I feel as an impostor when I announce to a hairdresser that I haven't had a haircut in more than a year, or when I confess to a manicurist that at age 26 (two years ago), this is my first time to have my nails done. Newspapers sometimes give me a mixed feeling of panic and euphoria when I stumble upon paragraphs like this:

"Women are usually not attracted to modest guys in glasses and ragged jeans - they don't consider them men." (My boyfriend of nearly seven years wears glasses, is one inch shorter than I am and has spent a considerable portion of his life wearing jeans and hitchhiking around the Soviet Union. So, am I a woman or what?) "But women immediately fall for the other type of men - those who wear golden crosses and smell of expensive perfume." (My boyfriend's Jewish - that sure does disqualify me from the women's ranks, I guess.) "As a result, it turns out that the first type of men can actually make decent husbands and fathers." (Really? Well, thank you.) "But girls, unfortunately, do not understand this. They keep waiting and hoping, when it is clear from the start that there's nothing here to hope for." (Oh well. I am not one of them, definitely.)

The same newspaper story (see illustration below) recommends women to analyze reasons for their celibacy. Here is how: "In America, there is a university called 'How To Get Married?' Disciplines offered there range from psychology to psychoanalysis, and tuition costs around $75,000. Recently, the rector of this university has created a family with one of the professors. Through her own experience, she has demonstrated that this is a skill that could be easily learned."


"Beautiful, Cold, Lonely..." A family newspaper, Russian style: one possible way of reading this article is to have the whole family - mother, father and their unmarried daughter - sitting on a couch; the mother reads the text out loud, the daughter listens and takes notes, the father admires the picture.

Looks more like a imaginary example of sexual harassment to me, but, as I mentioned earlier, we here have a different perspective on everything. In any case, not married and confused though I am, I would still prefer to do a dissertation on our newspapers. After all, I've already spent a semester in a class supposed to empower women, but ended up feeling nothing but guilt.

Mikhail Zhvanetskiy, the funniest and the most insightful comedian of the Soviet times, once noted that "in this country, the political impact of women during daytime is very low." Once in Ukraine, I was buying newspapers from a man approximately my age while his friend stood nearby and kept saying: "And for yourself? Aren't you gonna buy something for yourself?" It took me some time to understand what he meant: he thought I was buying "serious" papers for a husband (or a father, or a grandfather, or a boss) and wanted me to buy a "girlie" type of publication for my own reading pleasure. I smiled politely and explained that the papers were for me. As I was walking away from their stall, they yelled after me in a friendly unison: "Miss, are you a Congressman or what?!"

And boy, did it make me happy!

Evil Trains

May 2002
3 A.M. Magazine


March 1999: At work in a makeshift office on the Uzhgorod-Kyiv train.

My friend and a former colleague was once asked to do a skit on our typical working day at one American NGO in Ukraine. She began by describing a typical morning, when a woman in railway uniform wakes us up at 7 a.m., barging into our compartment and blaring, "Get up, we're approaching the sanitary zone, I'm locking the restrooms in 15 minutes, hurry!"

This thunder-woman is called “provodnitsa” in Russian and may be described as a grotesque imitation of a flight attendant. Aggressive, intrusive, unkempt, she inhabits most Ukrainian trains. Their second-class cars, at least. For all I know, some of my former American and Ukrainian colleagues working on an exchange program funded by the U.S. government, bear a closer resemblance to flight attendants, with their upright wheeler suitcases and with all the class they manage to maintain despite feeling kind of groggy at times, as their travel schedules grow too intense.

In the first six months on this job, I spent 32 nights in a four-passenger train compartment and got used to thinking about it as a job within a job. Then I lost count for a while. When I decided to move on after two years, I updated my glorious statistics and learned that I had been on 60 trips to 26 locations all over Ukraine.

Not all of these trips required trains. Moreover, at some point, our management looked into what one of our directors had called "life quality issues" and let us travel first class for a while. Nevertheless, a second-class, or kupe, car is like second home to me, a pathetic and unfriendly place where you'd never put on those cozy slippers and would be forever grateful to one of your American colleagues for having supplied you with multiple little bottles of Instant Antibacterial Hand Sanitizer that "kills germs without water" and contains moisturizers and Vitamin E.

An American journalist who used to live in Ukraine once wrote me: "I hope you don't have to take any overnight trains. I did that from Kyiv to Lviv and it was pretty hair-raising. I kept thinking the train would jerk and I'd fall out of bed."

Ukraine is a relatively big country, usually compared to France in size, and all the trains we took were overnight. Most trains leave after 6 p.m. and arrive early in the morning, which allowed us to have unimpaired work days despite arrivals and departures. To counteract staff exhaustion, we used to have a "frequent rider" system: for every 5,000 kilometers that we covered, we were getting one day off. Before I marked my first anniversary with the organization, I had traversed 22,500 kilometers, or 14,000 miles. According to my calculations, it was enough to commute just about 70 times between New York City and Washington, D.C., to accumulate such mileage.


Summer 1999: Relaxing after work, in Lviv.

I've seen seasons change outside the train windows. I've heard dozens of foolish Russian pop songs about failed love affairs, broken hearts and drunken days and nights, songs I'd never listen to voluntarily but couldn't escape on Ukrainian trains. I've seen people who didn't have the equivalent of 70 cents to pay for the train bedding and had to sleep on filthy mattresses. I've missed at least a dozen football games that our team played and that I really wanted to watch but couldn't because I was on a train. I've participated in a number of useless conversations with my compartment-mates who all seemed to be amateur philosophers with gloomy and unpractical yet unromantic views of life.

Being on a train was like diving: I took a deep breath and held it until I emerged from under the water. Life was getting suspended when I was on a train. I could read a book or try to take a nap, but this didn't count as conscious existence. Only in the morning, when I arrived at my destination and took a shower, everything around me revived and regained motion, and the sound of the train wheels stopped echoing in my head.

Later, my mind would gradually blend the memories of this parallel nightmarish life into a room where it stored my less significant memories. But a few of the train memories are outstanding and supply some flesh for the skeleton of the train segment of my life.

CLOISTERED ENCOUNTERS

The first trip in mid-March of 1999 made me realize how spoiled I was, living in the center of a crowded capital city. The weather was gloomy, no spring was in sight yet, and the train stopped at a town called Novograd-Volynskiy. I counted eight stray dogs at the station. I also noticed a few men and women who were neither leaving nor waiting for anyone to arrive. They looked as if this train station was the only and the best place in town to hang out.

By the time I went on my second and third trips, everything was green. I could hear birds and crickets as we were rushing along a narrow line of trees separating the railroad from the fields. I felt like getting off the train at some small deserted station, pretending that I was going to buy cigarettes or water, and never coming back. Let it go with all my bags and heroic colleagues. I could survive on my own for a while. When I got too lonely, hungry or dirty, I could always hitchhike back home to Kyiv.


Summer 2000: A train in Yaremche, Western Ukraine.

The experience with cockroaches on an Uzhgorod train was the most dramatic. Uzhgorod is a town I am in love with, but it is approximately 19 hours away from Kyiv. Once, I was sent there on my own. I shared a compartment with a young woman instead of the usual three people, of whom at least one needs company to have a drink, talks you to death and snores during the night. The young woman took out her contact lenses and quietly went to sleep right after the train began to move, giving me enough space and silence to write letters to my friends. It was 11 a.m.

An hour later I decided to eat my sandwiches. I took a bite, turned to look at the scenery outside the window and saw a big shiny cockroach staring at my food from across the table.

I spent the next nine or ten hours first with napkins in my hand, then with pieces of toilet paper, then with pages from my notebook, and finally, when I ran out of all that, with a train towel. My compartment-mate didn't bother to put her lenses back in when she woke up from her midday nap and just sat there on her bunk, whimpering at the sight of huge cockroaches that were visible to her. I saw dozens of small ones, too, and was killing them all.

The best weapons for hunting cockroaches in the road conditions are soft napkins and toilet paper. Shoes are too cumbersome for this task, and certain types of sole may not be appropriate, giving cockroaches a chance to escape. Notebook paper and towels cause the same problem.

I've always been afraid of cockroaches but on that train, close to midnight, I realized that my fear and squeamishness were gone: I suddenly saw myself holding a banana in my left hand as my right hand set about killing a huge cockroach with a napkin.

I've turned into a sniper, and though I didn't count, a good estimate would be 500 dead cockroaches. The whole experience reminded me of a computer game where you kill three, and five more are coming at you, you kill them, and ten more are coming from three different directions simultaneously.

I finally went to sleep after midnight, dreaming claustrophobic dreams and hoping that the surviving cockroaches wouldn't try to hold a wake on my head during the night.

We arrived in Uzhgorod around 7 a.m. the next morning, and I went to a hotel to take a shower. I had a breakfast consisting of an omelet and four cups of coffee, and at 9 a.m. I was working.

SPY STORIES

Sometimes I wondered if people we worked with were aware of what our lives were like. Did they ever realize that we had just stepped out of a lousy train and checked into a lousy hotel? There were times when we did not even have time to go to a hotel.

The Donetsk train, for example, leaves Kyiv at 7:30 p.m. and is supposed to reach its final destination 14 hours later. But it is often late. Once, my colleague and I had to change and eat right where we were supposed to work an hour after the train finally arrived in Donetsk. We ate cheese and canned rice dolma with our fingers, and the participants of our program who came early were knocking on the door every two minutes until we let them in. We worked for five hours, went out for a nice dinner and then went back to the train station and spent 14 hours more on a train back to Kyiv.

On the "Donetsk, Part Two: Kherson" trip, the scenario was just slightly different: the train was late, but we had an hour to have brunch, change into professional-looking clothes and brush our teeth in a restaurant's bathroom. I rejoiced our agility and wondered what the bored small-town waitresses could possibly think about this masquerade. They might have imagined that my colleague was an American spy on a mission and I was his local aide, a traitor, and that we were dropped off in Kherson by a submarine. I didn't have time to polish this story because we had to rush to work.

Four hours later, though, whoever might have been watching us had more reasons to believe we were spies. We returned to the same restaurant, ate hastily, jumped into a cab eight minutes before the train's departure, made the driver nervous by cursing local streetlights, somehow reached the train station without killing any pedestrains, found our train and climbed into the nearest car. We walked through the train to our car and as soon as we stepped into our compartment, the train set off on its return 15-hour journey to Kyiv.

"WATER" CLOSET

Someone had once shared an avant-garde bathroom design idea with me: wouldn't it be cool to purchase an old written-off train toilet and sink, wash them, paint them into a nicer color and install them at your home! I liked the idea in theory but couldn't imagine having something in my home that I had spent so much time fearing to touch.


Summer 2000: A bus in Yaremche, Western Ukraine.

For two years, I avoided using train restrooms in the morning. I don't think I'll ever get rid of this habit, even when I can travel by trains less frequently, having quit my job. It feels better to let your bladder come close to bursting and not have freshness in your mouth until you reach the hotel. In the evening, when the train departs, a tiny room containing a metal toilet and a sink with a construction resembling a tap, is dry and locked. But within an hour, after the train exits the "sanitary zone" surrounding the urban area, the bathroom gets unlocked and the first passengers use it. Soon the floor is all wet, an old useless rag is soaked and unable to absorb any more of the liquid, and it only gets worse.

A typical visit to a train bathroom includes the train's violent shaking, your attempts to simultaneously keep balance and keep your clothes away from that liquid on the floor, fear of touching anything and the necessity to do so, and sometimes the danger of being hit by an aluminum pail precariously hanging right above your head.

A sign on the wall reminds you that in order to flush the toilet you should "push the pedal below." When you push it, you realize how fast the train is going. It gets louder in the bathroom, and you see the tracks through an opening in the toilet that lets the water out and the fresh evening air in.

There is a small hole in the bathroom floor that also allows passengers to see how fast the train is. Once, when I was little, I was going to Crimea with my mother's friend, and she accompanied me to the bathroom and told me to pee into this hole because the toilet was too high for me. I guess this explains why there is always so much liquid on the floor, what kind of liquid it is and why there is never enough of it to get the bathroom flooded.

METAMORPHOSIS

In Kyiv, there is a building that, according to legend, has a room designed as a 19th-century train compartment because its first owner met his future wife on a train. I used to think that this was such a romantic way to commemorate a happy event. Now, however, I just find it very eccentric.

I also thought that one of my co-workers was eccentric when I found out that he would be returning from a trip two hours before his wedding. It took me some time to convince him to lobby for a substitute for that trip. I insisted that he would be tired and stressed out, and would annoy his bride, and that the train might be late and his own wedding was too important to miss.

For my wedding, I would like to rent a car and drive myself to the place where they register new couples. I miss driving, I cannot afford to buy a car and I would be too timid to drive it in this part of the world. By renting a car, I could make myself a nice present and have a unique and thrilling experience, enough to remember the wedding for the rest of my life. But I'd never choose to spend my last night as a single woman on a Ukrainian train. And I wouldn't want to commemorate the eventful two years with an American NGO by investing into a trailer and embellishing it with bunk beds.

Trains have changed me. I used to think that eccentricity was a precious gift given to a very limited number of individuals. But now I also know that there are instances when it's better to be boring, mainstream, conservative and conventional, and keep away from trains.